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S24O: Mile High

Determined to sleep at a higher altitude, I left the wife, kids and dog behind and snuck out the backdoor for a quick over-nighter.  I pushed my car down the driveway so no one would hear me leave.  To make this a true S24O, I drove to the Oconaluftee Visitor Center and started my mini-tour. The center sits in a beautiful valley just inside the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and is one mile from the southern terminus of the Blue Ridge Parkway.  It features a brand new history museum, a recreation of an old mountain homestead and offers a good selection of trail maps and guide books.  Just two miles north of Cherokee, North Carolina, this is a very popular entrance to the GSMNP, so expect traffic during the tourist season.  Smokemont Campground is just about a mile deeper into the park and would make another great starting point for visitors to the area wanting to do this ride.

Once on the BRP it’s a steady climb up, up, up through a forest with a thick growth of bright green leaves.  Life seems to ooze from everything this time of year in the mountains.  Wildflowers, moss, ferns and wild mint sprout from every crack in the granite boulders, which themselves seem to be sprouting from the ground.  Trees compete for every spare patch of earth and some have decided to grow themselves in some pretty improbable places.  The Oconaluftee Valley sits at 2,000 feet above sea level, so with 3,280 feet of climbing ahead I find a comfortable gear and prepare my mind for a few hours of monotonous spinning.

A handful of dark and damp tunnels lie between the tail-end of the Blue Ridge Parkway and Mile High campground, my destination for the night.  Mile High is a commercial campground atop Soco Mountain, just off the narrow strip of asphalt and greenery belonging to the Parkway.  Far enough off the beaten path to avoid being a “ghetto campground”, it is one of my favorite places.  The campground has been around for more than a few years and it is showing some age, but that just adds to the appeal.  Some of the sites teeter on an almost cliff-like ledge overlooking the Smokies.  Sunsets viewed from here are unforgettable.  After the sun slips behind the jagged horizon, I enjoy a twig fire before crawling into my Hennessy Hammock.

Hammock sleeping is a unique experience, but once you get the hang of it (ahem), you’ll pity common ground dwellers with their blowup mattresses and fluffy pillows.  Well, pity or envy.  Either way, you will definitely have a firm opinion one way or the other.  Personally I love the way the wind gently rocks the hammock.  And when it comes time to strike camp, a hammock packs down to the size of a Nalgene water bottle.

The next morning, I brew up a stout mug of ‘Cowboy Coffee’ and breakfast myself on a granola bar before rolling off the summit.  There are three routes off Soco.  Back along the Parkway towards the Qualla Boundary (Cherokee Indian Reservation), climb up and over Water Rock Knob and descend into Balsam Gap or ride the graveled Heintooga Road which takes you through a portion of the GSMNP and back into Cherokee.

I chose to return the way I came and enjoy a fast swoop down the mountain on the BRP.  What took about two hours to ascend the day before lasted only minutes and deposited me back in the Oconaluftee Valley.

Packing List:
Small Nashbar Pannier
Topeak Handlebar Bag
Hennessey Hammock
Summer sleeping bag
Thermo-Lite Bivy
Snow Peak 700 titanium mug
Taco Bell spork
A few Esbit Tabs, A few groceries
A few hygiene things, A few bike tools

  1. arlen
    August 1, 2011 at 5:33 am

    hammock sleeping is a gift from the gods….
    what novel did you bring to read???

  2. The Velo Hobo
    August 1, 2011 at 6:16 am

    Hi Arlen,
    “The Martian Chronicles” by Ray Bradbury…another used book store find.
    Cheers, Jack

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